There is still time to finish off planting spring bulbs and tidying up the rest of the garden ready for the coldest part of the winter. Gather up all fallen leaves each week and place them on the compost heap. A little digging will provide good exercise for you and if you add some well-rotted organic matter will provide your soil with improved long-term structure and drainage.

THE ORNAMENTAL GARDEN

Dig any borders that are free and leave the surface rough so that frosts can break down the clumps. If heavy clay soils are ever to improve they need this treatment each year plus the addition of organic matter while digging. Use any well-rotted garden compost or buy a bag or two of Levington Nature's Way Soil Improver & Mulch.

Tulips grow best in alkaline soils, although most soils are suitable as long as they are free-draining. To improve clay soils dig in generous amounts of garden compost or Levington Nature's Way Soil Improver & Mulch. The bulbs need to be planted fairly deeply so they have about 15 cm (6 inches) of soil above each bulb. Space each bulb 15cm (6in) apart.

If wind is a problem in your garden then avoid the tall varieties that soar to 75 cm (30 inches) tall. Instead stick to the dwarfer ones that stay below 15cm (6in). Visit your local gardening retailer to see the wide choice that is available and pick the colour combinations you like best. The shortest at around 10cm is probably a variety called Tarda which produces up to 5 pale yellow and white blooms from one bulb in March. The dwarf Preastans species is just a little taller and has 3 or 4 bright red blooms per stem.

Tulips from the Greigii family are also low growing, but this time with attractive striped leaves that add to the display potential. Try Red Riding Hood (scarlet), or Toronto (Pink). For twin-colour combinations on each bloom think about red and yellow Cape Cod or the carmine and yellow Plaisir.

The most popular tulips of all are the May flowering Darwins. They are tall (60-75 cm), strong-stemmed and available in a host of rich, vivid colours. Apeldoorn is orange-red, Clara Butt pink and Golden Apeldoorn a clear, clean yellow.

topical tip

The biggest pest problem of tulips is the underground slugs that eat their way through the newly planted bulbs and the emerging leaves. To give them protection from slugs, water the planted area with SlugClear, a liquid concentrate that kills the slugs and snails that are hiding underground.

THE PATIO GARDEN

Standing pots and tubs directly on paved patios during the winter is a sure way of encouraging water-logging and subsequent root damage from frozen compost. To improve drainage stand pots on decorative feet or at a last resort on bricks. To protect the roots of permanent planting from frost damage you can wrap the container in bubble polythene or several layers of loosely tied fleece.

Cordylines that are growing in containers should be tied up so that the leaves are vertical. In this way you will help to prevent water gathering at the point where the leaves join the stem and freezing solid - a sure way of the stem rotting off during the winter. As with flower borders it's time to plant up tulips for next spring's display. Tubs full of mixed dwarf early doubles will provide a riot of colour in April just when needed. They bloom on short strong stems and carry lots of petals to colour you container. Plant in fresh Levington Multi-Purpose Compost at least 15cm (6in) deep.

For a more sophisticated display think about the lily flowered tulips that provide oriental looking blooms that are fluted with petal tips that point outwards. They are relatively tall at 60 cm (2 ft) so need to be underplanted with other bedding that will compliment the colour you have chosen. Try any of these combinations for an attractive display. Pink and white daisies (Bellis) with Tulip Elegant Lady (cream base with pink tips), white pansies with Tulip China Pink or dark blue pansies with Tulip West Point which is a clear yellow.

Small pots should be planted up with a variety of bulbs for display on the patio when they are at their blooming best. Plant single snowdrops, Anemone blanda, specie crocus, dwarf Iris, winter aconites, Chionodoxa, dwarf daffodils and narcissi so that you will have something to bring to the front through the winter.

LAWNS

During mild weather cut the grass whenever you are able. Don't cut it too short - but a light trim will help to tidy the grass and reduce any long grass.

If the lawn is hard and compacted by plenty of games or general wear go over the lawn with a fork to drive holes into the surface about 8cm (3in) deep. This spiking will let in air and autumn rains to benefit the roots and relieve the compacted areas.

Bare patches on the lawn can be repaired quickly by sprinkling grass seed and fertilizer over the area. Rake the area to provide a loose surface and scatter EverGreen Lawn Repair Kit evenly over the surface.

Collect leaves that lie on the lawn at least once a week to prevent bare patches developing. A special lawn rake with flexible tines that are wide apart will minimise damage to the grass. If you want to get mechanical, then most mowers will collect leaves from the lawn or a Garden Vac/Blower can prove useful if the leaves are dry.

topical tip

It's not too late to apply a special autumn lawn food to ensure your lawn develops and thickens through the winter. Apply EverGreen Autumn up until mid November.

FRUIT AND VEGETABLES

Dig over any bare areas of the vegetable plot. Do not add fresh manure or other organic matter to those areas that will grow root crops such as carrots and parsnips as this will encourage the roots to split. In other areas of the vegetable garden that are to grow leaf and seed crops (peas, beans, cabbages) incorporate as much organic matter as possible including well rotted garden compost and Levington Nature's Way Soil Improver & Mulch. To kill any weed seeds that germinate in mild spells wet the weed leaves with Weedol and leave to die. Weedol is one of the very few weedkillers that will work throughout the year, even in wet weather and is invaluable for keeping ground clear without any physical effort.

Gather and burn all the leaves of peaches that have suffered from the red blisters of peach leaf curl. When all the leaves have been removed spray with Murphy Traditional Copper Fungicide to control the overwintering spores.

topical tip

Sow a row of broad beans 'The Sutton' in a sheltered spot or under cloches to provide a very early crop next spring.

IN THE GREENHOUSE

Water sparingly plants such as fuchsias that are being overwintered in the greenhouse. The compost should not be kept permanently wet, but on the other hand it shouldn't be allowed to dry out completely. Check for whitefly infestations and where these sap-sucking pests are spotted spray decorative plants with a greenhouse and conservatory insecticide called Polysect Ready to Use. Wash down the greenhouse glazing inside and out, scrub staging, framework and floors with a solution of disinfectant.

topical tip

A lining of bubble polythene will significantly reduce heating bills to keep tender plants through the winter. If necessary line one end of the greenhouse and just heat this smaller area.

RATS AND MICE

Major rodent activity occurs in the autumn because rats and mice are looking for winter quarters where they can breed in peace. Mice will be looking to make nests in homes, sheds and garages where there is access to food and protection from predators.

Tidy up garages, outdoor sheds and other areas so there is less nesting material and fewer hiding places. Take preventative action by clearing away all rodent food sources including seeds and food refuse. Keep an eye on kitchen store cupboards for mice activity. This will be noticed as nibbled food packets, tell-tale droppings or grease marks against walls or skirting boards. Wear gloves to throw away any food that has been nibbled, to clear out affected cupboards and to thoroughly disinfect the area to minimise carry over of disease.

Now lay down one or two Mouser bait stations where the mice have been running. Place at the back or behind kitchen cupboards where mice are active or against inside walls of garages and sheds. This modern mouse bait container is an enclosed feeding station that hides a fixed wax block of rodenticide that kills mice after feeding. Access to the bait is through two small holes which limits contact by animals and helps prevent accidental contact by children, cats, dogs and other large pets. There is sufficient bait within a Mouser bait station to kill up to ten mice and a window in the base of the container allows users to see when the wax block has been fully eaten. Rats are less curious than mice although they are more destructive. Environmental Health Officers throughout Britain are warning that rodent populations are reaching frightening numbers. The rat population of the UK is at least 60 million and none of us are immune to their harmful activity. Rats are after a safe, dry nest for breeding and a regular food source. They are specially adapted to get through tiny holes, climb most surfaces and gnaw through most materials, even metal. Look for evidence of runs, burrows and nests under and in garden sheds, in garages and under hedges. Rats move at night along regular runs and prefer to move along a wall or fence rather than across open spaces. This regular movement leaves a tell-tale grease mark along vertical surfaces.

Do not disturb the runs or nest entrance. Where evidence of rat activity is found place Ratak rat and mouse killer bait on pieces of card along runs where rodents can feed easily. Protect bait sites from weather or access by children or animals. Place in lengths of drainpipe or under tiles leant against a wall or fence. Check if the bait has been taken and replace the bait that has been eaten. Continue baiting as long as bait is being consumed.